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Unilock Fence Installation Nationwide

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Unilock Fence Installation: The San Francisco Owner’s Guide

Unilock fence installation in San Francisco typically runs $4,130 to $10,620 for a complete run, including the Unilock block or post system, base preparation, and labor. We stock Unilock-compatible fence components on our trucks and can usually have an installation crew on-site within a few days of your written estimate. Most San Francisco homeowners discover their Unilock fence has failed when a post starts leaning after a winter storm, or when the freeze-thaw cycle in neighborhoods like West Portal or the Sunset has worked a section of block loose from its base course.

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What starts as a wobble at the gate becomes a full section down after the next big wind off the Pacific. If you’re reading this, you’ve probably already spotted the symptoms: a post that’s drifted out of plumb, a hairline crack running through a cap, or a row of blocks that’s settled half an inch and now catches the gate. You want the part matched, the price in writing, and the repair done without a crew leaving half the old base in your planting bed. That’s the job.

Which Unilock Models This Applies To

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We work across the Unilock fence and freestanding wall product lines installed throughout San Francisco, including the Estate Wall, Pisa, Brussels Dimensional, and U-Cara multi-face systems. The critical compatibility point is the block module height and the post core width. Unilock fence posts are typically built around a 4×4 or 6×6 structural post set in concrete, with the block modules stacked around it. If you’re replacing a section, the replacement block must match the original module height, or your cap rows won’t line up and you’ll see a visible seam every time you walk past it.

Look for the Unilock stamp on the underside of a cap unit or the back face of a block. If the stamp is worn, measure the exposed face: Estate Wall modules run roughly 12 inches wide by 4 inches tall, while Brussels Dimensional runs taller at 6 inches per course. Bradford Remodeling Co San Francisco is an independent contractor, not a Unilock dealer or affiliate, so when a line is discontinued or backordered, we’ll tell you straight and offer the closest aftermarket equivalent that matches the original module spec. Sometimes that’s a Unilock factory unit; sometimes it’s a quality block from a supplier we’ve used for years. We’ll show you both options and let you choose.

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Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
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Home additions & ADU
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Windows & doors
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Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your Unilock Fence Installation Is Failing

  • Post lean at the gate hinge. The gate is the heaviest load point on any fence, and a post that’s drifted out of plumb means the embedded 4×4 or 6×6 core has begun to rot or the concrete footing has fractured. San Francisco’s wet winters accelerate this once water finds the post base.
  • Hairline cracks through cap units. Unilock caps are structural, not decorative. A crack usually means the course below has settled unevenly and the cap is now spanning a void. That void only widens in clay soil neighborhoods like the Richmond, where seasonal swelling and shrinking is a known issue.
  • Gap opening between block courses. When the adhesive bond between courses fails, you’ll see a clean horizontal split. This is commonly a freeze-thaw failure: water gets into the seam, expands, and pops the adhesive. Fog-belt San Francisco sees enough overnight freeze cycles in January to make this a real thing.
  • Efflorescence that won’t stop. A white chalky film that keeps returning after cleaning indicates water is moving through the wall core, not just condensing on the face. The drainage column or base course is compromised.
  • Base course sinking below grade. If your bottom row of block is disappearing into the soil, the compacted aggregate base under the fence has failed. This is a base repair, not a block repair, and the section needs to come out to fix it properly.
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Replacement Cost & What’s Included

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Most Unilock fence installations in San Francisco fall in the $4,130 to $10,620 range. A short 10-foot section beside a walkway, where we’re reusing the existing footing and just re-stacking block, lands at the low end. A full fence line with a new gate, new post cores, and full base excavation across 40 feet of clay or sand, lands at the top. The price always includes block, adhesive, base material, structural post cores where needed, concrete for footings, and full cleanup of the old section we remove.

Before we touch a single block, you get a written price that breaks out materials and labor. That number doesn’t move at the door. If we open up the base and find something unexpected, like a rotted post core that wasn’t visible from the surface, we stop, show you what we found, and put the revised number in writing before any additional work proceeds. Every Unilock fence job is covered by our 365-Day Done Right Promise: if the work fails within a year, we return and correct it at no charge. Curtis Lane signs off on the guarantee before you sign anything else.

DIY or Call Us?

You can safely check a few things yourself: look for the Unilock stamp on a cap or block face, note whether the gap between courses is consistent top to bottom, and check if the gate drags at the latch. Those details help us give you a faster quote over the phone.

What we don’t recommend is pulling a fence section apart yourself, especially any post that’s carrying a gate. A gate post under tension can shift suddenly when the adjacent block is removed, and you’re dealing with a loaded structure, not a stack of bricks. We’ve repaired enough DIY removals in Noe Valley and the Mission where a homeowner got the block off but couldn’t get the new course seated because the base had shifted underneath them. If it’s a cap replacement and you’re comfortable doing it, fine. If it’s a leaning post, a cracked base, or anything carrying a gate, call us at (831) 610-5598 and we’ll give you a real number.

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