A Bradford company - serving San Francisco, CA
A remodeled kitchen with a wood island, painted cabinets and a plaster range hood

Sterling Kitchen Remodeling Nationwide

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A galley kitchen opened up to the dining room with a new peninsula
A stone counter, tile backsplash and open shelf after a kitchen remodel
New painted shaker cabinets with an organized deep drawer
A small remodeled galley kitchen with cabinets to the ceiling
A walk-in pantry with wood shelving
A wood double vanity with two mirrors after a bathroom remodel
An open living space after a whole-home remodel
A finished backyard cottage with a small covered porch
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Sterling Kitchen Remodeling: The San Francisco Owner’s Guide

We install and service Sterling kitchen systems throughout San Francisco, and a full Sterling kitchen remodel in the city runs $16,520 to $53,100 installed, including materials, labor, demolition, and finish work. Most homeowners call us after one of three things happens: a cabinet face separates from its frame, a sink rim loses its seal and starts leaking into the base cabinet, or the countertop substrate swells from years of fog-driven moisture that creeps in around the backsplash. If you’ve got a Sterling component that’s failed or is starting to go, we stock the common replacement hardware and trim on our trucks, and we can order the model-specific pieces with a written price before any work starts.

Call (831) 610-5598

We’re an independent San Francisco remodeling contractor, not a Sterling factory service center. That matters because we’re not limited to one parts stream. We pair OEM Sterling components with documented aftermarket equivalents where they hold up better in this climate, and we put that call in writing before you spend a dollar.

Which Sterling Models This Applies To

A remodeled kitchen with a waterfall island and wood cabinets

Sterling’s kitchen line spans three main series that show up regularly in San Francisco homes: the builder-grade entry series installed in a lot of 1990s and early 2000s Sunset and Richmond district remodels, the mid-range series with full-extension drawer glides and plywood box construction, and the higher-end series with soft-close hardware and maple or birch face frames. The quickest way to identify what you have is to pull a drawer and look at the inside of the box or the underside of the drawer bottom. Sterling stamps a date code and a model prefix there on most production runs after 1995.

The compatibility gotcha we see all the time: hinge bore patterns changed between Sterling’s older concealed hinge generation and the current clip-on style. A cabinet door from a 2003 box won’t hang on a 2024 hinge plate without adapter plates or a face-frame conversion. We keep adapter plates on the truck and check every door against its original frame before we order one replacement. When OEM parts are discontinued or backordered, we spec aftermarket hardware from manufacturers whose specs match the original bore pattern and weight rating. You’ll know which route we’re recommending and why before we cut a single check on your behalf.

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Styles & brands we work with

Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Home additions & ADU
Home additions & ADU
Roofing
Roofing
Windows & doors
Windows & doors
Driveway & pavers
Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your Sterling Kitchen Remodeling Is Failing

  • Cabinet door no longer closes flush against the face frame. This usually means a hinge plate has worked loose from the frame or the door has absorbed enough moisture to warp slightly along the grain. We see this most in Outer Sunset and Richmond district homes where salt fog pushes through unsealed window frames and settles in the kitchen.
  • Sink rim caulk is peeling, darkened, or lifting. Once that seal breaks, dishwater and sink overflow track straight into the substrate under the countertop. By the time you see water staining inside the base cabinet, the particleboard or MDF under the sink has usually swelled and needs to be cut out and replaced.
  • Drawer glides bind or scrape when you open them. Sterling’s older side-mount glides have nylon rollers that flatten over time. Once a roller flattens, the drawer rides metal-on-metal and the track starts to gall. A worn glide will eventually pull out of the box side and drop the drawer.
  • Countertop seam is separating near the sink or range. This is a classic San Francisco failure. Gas ranges put off constant low heat that expands and contracts the seam, and the fog season’s humidity cycles do the rest. We re-seam and stabilize those sections before the opening lets water into the cabinet tops.
  • Face frame joint has opened at the corner. Older Sterling entry-series boxes were assembled with butt joints and staples at the frame corners. Years of door slamming and seasonal wood movement eventually split those joints. A split frame corner means the whole cabinet is losing its rack strength and needs a frame repair or a replacement box.
Before & after

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Before - Recent ProjectBeforeAfter - Recent ProjectAfter
Recent Project
Before - Full RestorationBeforeAfter - Full RestorationAfter
Full Restoration
Before - Complete UpgradeBeforeAfter - Complete UpgradeAfter
Complete Upgrade

Replacement Cost & What’s Included

An open kitchen and dining area after a remodel

A full Sterling kitchen remodel in San Francisco runs $16,520 to $53,100. Where your project lands depends mostly on three things: kitchen size in linear feet, whether we’re rebuilding the existing layout or moving plumbing and electrical, and which material tier you pick for the tops and boxes. Here’s how the major pieces price out around the city:

  • Full kitchen remodel: $16,520 – $53,100
  • Small kitchen remodel: $10,620 – $23,600
  • Cabinet installation only: $4,720 – $15,340
  • Countertop installation: $2,360 – $7,670
  • Backsplash installation: $945 – $2,950
  • Kitchen island installation: $3,540 – $11,800

Every quote includes the written scope, the line-item material list, the labor number, and the disposal. No numbers move at the door. Our work comes with the 365-Day Done Right Promise: if anything we installed fails inside the first year, we come back and correct it at no charge. You’ll have that in writing before demolition starts, and you’ll have a signed copy in your hand at close-out.

DIY or Call Us?

A homeowner can check a few things without touching a tool: inspect the caulk line around the sink and backsplash for cracks, pull drawers and look at the rollers, and feel whether cabinet doors are loose at the hinge plate. If you find a loose hinge screw, tightening it is fair game. What you should not do is pull a countertop or cut into a substrate if you suspect water damage. Once you get into the box structure or the stone top, you’re dealing with seals, shims, and weight loads that go wrong in ways that are expensive to undo.

If your Sterling kitchen is showing any of the failure signs above, call (831) 610-5598. We’ll walk you through what we think you’re looking at on the phone, then schedule a real assessment with a written number. No charge for the estimate, and no pressure to sign.

FAQs

Installers leveling a new base cabinet during a kitchen remodel

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